Looking closer at dress shirt collars

Collars of mens dress shirts have a long and colorful history. Many styles that were popular decades ago have returned to vogue, while others have evolved in exciting new directions. Custom tailors are schooled in all styles of custom dress shirts. They are prepared to discuss the tasteful possibilities so you can make informed decisions.

0 Collar is a fashion-forward and contemporary narrow spread collar for men’s shirts. This collar can be made in widths of 3″ to 4_” and with a height of 1 ¾” to 2 ¼”. It’s all up to you and how great an outfit you’d like.

Collars 1 and 2 are classic straight collars. With points slightly closer together, Collar 1 is the staple of any man’s wardrobe. Collar 2 is a strong choice as well, with points that flare just a bit more. Collar points should be 2 5/8″ to 3 1/4″ long, depending on your neck height and width. These collars are comfortable dressed up or down, depending on the fabric or cuff style chosen. Custom shirts with these collars can also be dressy, worn with a tie bar that slides through the collar and holds the points down around the tie. They are great for casual wear as well, worn open with the collar stays removed. Beautiful and functional, these collars are appropriate with any and every style of suit.

Classic Spread Collar 6 is another wardrobe staple. This distinctive style has a little extra flare for a more open look. A versatile classic, it flatters any suit style. Recommended lengths are 2 5/8 to 3 ¼” with a height of 1 5/8 to 2 ¼” . English Spread Collar 4 has been an enduring favorite of London’s Jermyn Street shirts makers. With a little less spread than the cutaway (#14), this dressy one is natty for accompanying suits or blazers.

Classic Button Down Collar 3 is the most comfortable of all the collar styles, made with a soft lining and no collar stays. It features two collar points held in place by small buttons. This collar is usually fashioned with a soft roll and a 3/8″ tie space to easily accommodate a tie. Typically quarter stitched (the classic collar finishing), and completed with button cuffs. Custom made shirts with this collar style work well with more casual body patterns, with pleated backs or sleeves (compared to split-yoke of the non-button-down styles.) It is often worn open in casual wear and is also quite stunning in the company of a bow tie. Although acceptable business attire, Collar #3 does not work well with dressy suits or double-breasted styled jackets and should not be worn in these contexts. Keep it casual.

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